We replaced our roof two years ago. The damage: $12,400 for a 1,800 square foot ranch with a simple roofline, mid-range architectural shingles, nothing fancy. I thought we’d been robbed until I got three other quotes and realized we’d actually gotten a decent deal. Roofing costs are just that high now.
If you’re staring at a roof that’s curling, leaking, or pushing 25 years old, here’s what you’re actually looking at.
What Does a New Roof Cost?
Most homeowners pay $8,000 to $20,000 for a full roof replacement, with the national average hovering around $10,000 to $12,000 for an average-sized home with asphalt shingles. But that range is almost meaningless without context because roofs vary so dramatically.
The variables that matter: your roof’s size measured in squares (one square equals 100 square feet), the pitch or steepness, the number of layers to tear off, your material choice, and your local labor market. A small simple roof with basic three-tab shingles might run $5,000. A large steep roof with premium materials in a high-cost area could exceed $30,000.
What Affects Roofing Costs
Roof size. Roofers measure in squares, and most homes have between 15 and 30 squares. Material and labor costs multiply by squares, so size is the primary driver. Get your square footage from your home’s property records or have a roofer measure.
Roof pitch. Steeper roofs cost more because they’re harder and more dangerous to work on, require more safety equipment, and take longer. A walkable 4/12 pitch (rises 4 inches per foot of horizontal run) is standard. Anything over 6/12 adds cost. Steep pitches over 9/12 can add 25% or more to labor.
Layers and tear-off. If you have one layer of shingles, tearing it off is straightforward. Two layers means more labor and disposal fees. Three layers is unusual and expensive to remove. Some areas allow roofing over existing shingles which saves money but adds weight and can hide underlying damage.
Roof complexity. A simple rectangular roof with few penetrations is faster to shingle. Every hip, valley, dormer, skylight, chimney, and vent adds cutting, flashing, and detail work. Complex rooflines cost significantly more per square than simple ones.
Material choice. Asphalt shingles are cheapest. Metal, tile, slate, and wood shake cost progressively more. Within asphalt, three-tab shingles cost less than dimensional or architectural shingles, which cost less than premium designer shingles.
Geographic location. Labor rates vary dramatically, materials cost more in remote areas, and some regions have specific requirements like hurricane strapping or ice dam protection that add cost.
Time of year. Late summer and fall are peak roofing season. Scheduling in late winter or early spring sometimes yields better pricing as contractors fill slow periods.
Roofing Costs by Material
Prices are per square (100 square feet) installed, as of December 2025.
Three-tab asphalt shingles: $350 to $500 per square. The budget option, lies flat, 15-20 year lifespan, looks basic but works fine.
Architectural/dimensional asphalt: $400 to $650 per square. More depth and visual interest, 25-30 year lifespan, what most people choose now.
Premium/designer asphalt: $550 to $900 per square. Mimics the look of slate or wood, heavier, 30+ year warranty, significant curb appeal upgrade.
Standing seam metal: $800 to $1,400 per square. Durable, 40-70 year lifespan, energy efficient, looks great on the right house, loud in rain if not properly insulated.
Metal shingles or tiles: $700 to $1,200 per square. Resemble traditional roofing materials but with metal durability, lighter than tile.
Clay or concrete tile: $1,000 to $2,000 per square. Heavy (structure must support it), lasts 50+ years, common in Spanish and Mediterranean styles.
Natural slate: $1,500 to $3,000+ per square. The premium option, can last 100 years, extremely heavy, requires specialized installation.
Wood shake: $600 to $1,000 per square. Beautiful natural look, 20-30 year lifespan, requires maintenance, fire concerns in some areas.
Our Roof Replacement Experience
A hailstorm three years ago started the clock. Insurance sent an adjuster who documented damage but the roof held for two more years with a few patched spots. When water started appearing in the attic after heavy rains, we knew we’d pushed it far enough.
We got five quotes. The range: $10,800 to $16,500. Same roof, same general scope, enormous price difference. The lowest bidder was a guy who knocked on doors after storms, no office, payment in cash only, warranty backed by nothing. We crossed him off immediately. The highest bidder was a large regional company with slick sales materials and a price that included their impressive overhead.
The three middle quotes clustered between $11,900 and $13,200. We picked a local company at $12,400 based on reviews, their clear explanation of what the work involved, and the fact that they’d been in business locally for 18 years. They pulled the permit, did the tear-off in one day, installed new underlayment, flashed everything properly, and had shingles on by end of day two. They came back a week later to walk the roof and verify everything was sealed tight.
Two years later, no leaks, no issues, no regrets. Except maybe we should have replaced it a year earlier before that one rain soaked the attic insulation.
Signs You Need a New Roof
Some signs mean you have time to plan and budget. Others mean you’re already past due.
Replace soon if shingles are curling, buckling, or losing granules, you can see bare spots where the asphalt coating has worn through. Replace soon if the roof is approaching its expected lifespan, even if it looks okay from the ground, because problems often hide until they cause damage. Replace soon if you see daylight through the roof boards from inside the attic. Replace soon if multiple shingles have blown off and patches are accumulating.
You’re already late if water stains appear on ceilings or walls after rain, active leaks mean active damage happening to structure, insulation, and eventually everything below. You’re late if the roof deck feels soft or spongy when walked on, that’s rot. You’re late if you see sagging sections of roofline, structural damage is expensive and dangerous.
Might not need replacement if you have a few damaged or missing shingles, spot repairs might extend the roof’s life several more years. Might not need replacement if moss or algae is growing, that’s often cleanable without replacing everything. Might not need replacement if you see minor wear but no active problems, a roof inspection can tell you how much life remains.
How to Save on a New Roof
The biggest savings come from timing and choices, not from negotiating contractors down to unprofitable levels.
Get multiple quotes, at least three, ideally five, because roofing estimates vary wildly and you need to see the range to understand what’s reasonable. Choose standard architectural shingles over premium products if budget matters, the performance difference rarely justifies the cost for most homes. Avoid storm chasers and door knockers, they often use out-of-town crews, disappear when warranty claims arise, and sometimes do shoddy work.
Consider scheduling for off-peak seasons when contractors may offer better pricing to fill their schedules. Ask about any available manufacturer rebates or utility programs for energy-efficient roofing. If your old roof is a single layer and in reasonable shape, roofing over might be an option that saves tear-off costs, though it has downsides including added weight and hidden problems.
Don’t skip necessary work to save money because cutting corners on flashing, underlayment, or ventilation creates problems that cost more to fix than you saved. Do the job right once.
Insurance and Storm Damage
If your roof was damaged by a covered event like hail or wind, homeowner’s insurance may pay for replacement minus your deductible.
File a claim promptly after damage occurs. Document everything with photos before any repairs. Get your own inspection and quotes, don’t rely solely on the insurance adjuster’s assessment. Insurance pays for replacement of damaged sections, not upgrades, so if you want better materials than what you had, you’ll pay the difference.
Be wary of contractors who offer to “work with your insurance” in ways that sound like they’re inflating claims or waiving your deductible, that’s insurance fraud and can backfire badly. Legitimate contractors will help you document damage and work with adjusters, but the estimate should reflect actual repair costs.
Questions to Ask Roofers
What specific shingle brand and product line are you quoting? What underlayment will you install? How will you handle flashing around chimneys, vents, and walls? Will you pull the required permits? How long is the manufacturer’s warranty and what does your workmanship warranty cover? How many layers are currently on the roof and are you tearing off all of them? Who will actually be on my roof, your employees or subcontractors? How do you handle unexpected damage found during tear-off?
Get detailed answers in writing. A reputable roofer won’t mind being specific.
The Warranty Question
Roofing warranties are confusing because there are two types that cover different things.
Manufacturer warranties cover defects in the roofing material itself. A 30-year shingle warranty means the manufacturer stands behind the product for that long, but read the fine print because coverage often prorates significantly after the first 10-15 years and excludes labor costs.
Workmanship warranties from your contractor cover installation errors. These matter more in practice because most roof failures come from installation problems, not defective shingles. A good contractor offers at least 5-10 years on workmanship. Some offer longer.
The best warranty means nothing if the company won’t be around to honor it. A 50-year warranty from a fly-by-night contractor is worthless. A 10-year warranty from an established local company is worth something.
Pricing reflects typical ranges as of December 2025. Costs vary significantly by region, roof characteristics, and material choices. Always get multiple quotes and verify contractor credentials.
