We ripped out carpet in three bedrooms last year and replaced it with luxury vinyl plank. Best decision we’ve made for the house. The dog hair that used to embed itself in carpet fibers now sits on the surface waiting to be swept. Spills wipe up. The scratches from moving furniture that would’ve destroyed hardwood don’t show. Total cost for about 450 square feet including installation: $3,800.
If you’re considering LVP flooring, here’s what it actually costs and what drives the price.
What Does LVP Flooring Cost?
Expect to pay $3 to $10 per square foot for materials and $1.50 to $4 per square foot for installation, putting your total at $4.50 to $14 per square foot installed. Most homeowners land in the $6 to $9 range for decent quality LVP with professional installation.
For a 500 square foot room, that means $2,250 to $7,000 total. For a whole-house installation of 1,500 square feet, you’re looking at $6,750 to $21,000 depending heavily on which product you choose and your local labor market.
The range is enormous because LVP spans from builder-grade basics to nearly indistinguishable hardwood imitations.
What Affects LVP Flooring Prices
Product quality and thickness. LVP comes in thicknesses from about 2mm to 8mm or more. Thicker planks feel more substantial underfoot, hide subfloor imperfections better, and typically last longer. The wear layer, the clear top coating that resists scratches and stains, ranges from 6 mil on cheap products to 20+ mil on premium ones. A 20 mil wear layer handles dogs, kids, and heavy traffic for decades. A 6 mil wear layer shows wear within years.
Visual realism. Budget LVP looks like printed plastic because it is printed plastic, the same wood pattern repeating every few planks, no texture variation. Premium LVP uses multiple print patterns, embossed textures that align with the printed grain, and subtle color variations that make it genuinely hard to distinguish from real wood at a glance. You pay for that realism.
Attached underlayment. Some LVP comes with padding already attached to the bottom of each plank. This saves the separate underlayment step and cost, improves sound dampening, and adds slight cushion underfoot. Products without attached pad need separate underlayment at $0.30 to $1.00 per square foot additional.
Brand and warranty. Name brands like Coretec, Shaw, Mohawk, and Mannington cost more than big-box store brands but typically offer better warranties, more consistent quality, and better color matching if you need to add more later. Budget brands work fine in low-traffic areas but may disappoint in main living spaces.
Installation complexity. A rectangular room with one doorway is simple. Multiple rooms, stairs, complex transitions between flooring types, pattern layouts, and working around kitchen islands or built-ins add labor time. Removing old flooring adds to the bill. Subfloor repair or leveling adds more.
Your location. Labor rates vary significantly by region. Installation in a high cost-of-living metro area might run $4 or more per square foot while rural areas might see $2 or less.
LVP Costs by Quality Tier
Budget/builder grade ($2-4 per square foot): Thin planks, low wear layer, limited patterns, basic click-lock systems. Fine for rental properties, closets, or spaces where you need flooring fast and cheap. Will show wear in high-traffic areas within 5-7 years.
Mid-range ($4-7 per square foot): 12-20 mil wear layer, decent thickness, realistic wood looks, attached underlayment common, good warranties. This is where most homeowners should shop. Brands like LifeProof, NuCore, and some Shaw lines live here.
Premium ($7-12+ per square foot): Thick planks with 20+ mil wear layers, extremely realistic textures and patterns, superior sound absorption, the best warranties. Coretec Plus, Mannington Adura Max, Shaw Floorte Elite. Can genuinely fool people into thinking it’s hardwood.
Installation Costs Breakdown
If you’re hiring out the work, here’s how the bill typically breaks down.
Old flooring removal: $1 to $3 per square foot. Carpet is cheaper to remove than tile or hardwood. Disposal fees may be separate.
Subfloor prep: $0 to $4+ per square foot depending on condition. Minor leveling might be included. Major repairs or full leveling compound adds significant cost.
Underlayment: $0.30 to $1.00 per square foot if not attached to the planks. Some installers include basic underlayment in their labor rate.
Installation labor: $1.50 to $4 per square foot for the actual LVP installation. Click-lock floating installation is faster and cheaper than glue-down.
Transitions and trim: $3 to $10 per linear foot for transition strips between rooms or flooring types, plus quarter round or shoe molding along walls at $1 to $3 per linear foot.
Furniture moving: Sometimes included, sometimes charged extra. Ask.
Our LVP Installation Experience
We went with a mid-range product, LifeProof from Home Depot at $3.29 per square foot on sale, and hired an installer rather than DIYing because my husband’s back and my patience wouldn’t have survived three rooms of floor work.
Materials for 450 square feet including 10% overage for cuts: about $1,650. We bought our own transitions and quarter round for another $180. Installation labor: $1,800. Old carpet removal was included. Subfloor was in good shape so no prep needed beyond cleaning. New baseboards would have been extra but our existing ones were fine.
Total project: roughly $3,800.
The installers finished all three rooms in a single long day. We had furniture back in place by the next evening. Eight months later the floors look exactly like the day they went in despite two kids, one large dog, and one small dog who thinks she’s large. We’ve already decided to do the living room and hallway the same way next year.
LVP vs. Other Flooring Options
LVP vs. hardwood. Real hardwood runs $6 to $15+ per square foot installed, scratches more easily, can’t handle moisture in bathrooms or basements, and needs periodic refinishing. But it’s the real thing, adds home value, and can be refinished multiple times over decades. LVP is more practical for families with kids and pets.
LVP vs. laminate. Laminate flooring costs slightly less than comparable LVP but can’t handle moisture at all, swells and warps if it gets wet, and can sound hollow or plasticky underfoot. LVP is waterproof and generally feels better.
LVP vs. tile. Tile is the traditional waterproof option, lasts forever, but it’s cold, hard on joints if you stand on it long, and costs significantly more to install. LVP is warmer, more comfortable, and much faster to install.
LVP vs. carpet. Carpet is softer and cheaper but stains, traps allergens, wears in traffic patterns, and looks dingy within years even with cleaning. LVP costs more upfront but stays looking good longer with less maintenance.
Can You Install LVP Yourself?
Click-lock LVP is genuinely DIY-friendly. The planks snap together without glue, float over the subfloor without attachment, and can be cut with a utility knife or basic saw. If you’re reasonably handy and patient, you can install a room in a weekend.
DIY makes sense if you’re doing a single room or small area, you have time to learn and work carefully, your subfloor is level and in good condition, and saving $1.50 to $3 per square foot matters to your budget.
Hire a pro if you’re doing multiple rooms or whole-house installation, your subfloor needs significant prep work, you have complex layouts with lots of cuts and transitions, you don’t have the time or physical ability for the work, or you want it done right without learning curve mistakes.
The middle ground: prep the space yourself by removing old flooring, baseboards, and furniture, then pay a pro for the actual installation. You save some labor cost without taking on the skilled work.
Common LVP Mistakes to Avoid
Skipping acclimation. Most LVP needs to sit in your home for 24-48 hours before installation so it adjusts to your temperature and humidity. Skip this and you risk gaps or buckling later.
Ignoring subfloor issues. LVP doesn’t hide problems, it telegraphs them. Bumps and dips in the subfloor show through. Moisture in concrete can cause issues. Address these before installing.
Buying exactly the right amount. Always buy 10-15% extra for cuts, mistakes, and future repairs. Dye lots vary and you may not be able to match later.
Forgetting expansion gaps. Floating floors need space to move, typically 1/4 inch around all walls and fixed objects. Skip the gap and the floor buckles.
Choosing the cheapest option for high-traffic areas. A 6 mil wear layer in your main living space will look worn within years. It’s not savings if you have to replace it early.
Questions to Ask About LVP
What is the wear layer thickness? Is underlayment attached or separate? How many unique print patterns does this product have (higher means less obvious repetition)? What’s the warranty on residential use and what voids it? Can this be installed in bathrooms, kitchens, and basements? How much extra should I buy for cuts and future repairs? What subfloor prep is included in installation quotes?
Pricing reflects typical ranges as of December 2025. Costs vary by region, product selection, and installation complexity. Always get multiple quotes and check product specifications before purchasing.
