We replaced eight windows last spring. The quote that made me sit down: $14,200. For windows. I knew it wouldn’t be cheap but I didn’t expect to feel like I’d been punched. The thing is, our 25-year-old windows were fogging between the panes, the seals had failed on half of them, and our heating bill suggested we were basically warming the entire neighborhood. So we did it anyway.
Here’s what I learned about replacement window costs, what actually drives the price, and where you might be able to save.
What Do Replacement Windows Cost?
Expect to pay $300 to $1,200 per window installed, with most homeowners landing somewhere between $450 and $800 per window. A typical whole-house replacement of 10-15 windows runs $6,000 to $18,000, though high-end windows or complicated installations can push that higher.
The window itself is only part of the cost. Labor typically adds $100 to $300 per window. If your frames are rotted or damaged, repairs add more. If you’re changing window sizes or styles, framing modifications get expensive fast.
What Affects Window Replacement Pricing
The range is enormous because so many variables stack on top of each other.
Window material. Vinyl windows cost the least, typically $200 to $600 per window before installation, and they’re low maintenance, energy efficient, and honestly fine for most homes. Wood windows run $400 to $1,200 or more, they look beautiful and can be painted to match anything but they require upkeep and will rot if you ignore them. Fiberglass sits in between at $500 to $1,500, stronger than vinyl with better insulation properties, but the price premium is real. Aluminum windows are less common for residential now, they’re durable but conduct heat and cold which defeats the purpose of upgrading.
Window style. Double-hung windows where both sashes move are the most common and moderately priced. Casement windows that crank open cost slightly more. Picture windows that don’t open at all cost less since there’s no operating hardware. Bay and bow windows that project outward are significantly more expensive, often $1,500 to $4,000 installed because of the custom framing and complexity. Specialty shapes like arches, circles, or custom configurations add 25-50% over standard sizes.
Glass options. Double-pane insulated glass is standard now, triple-pane costs more but improves insulation significantly in cold climates. Low-E coatings that reflect heat add $25 to $50 per window but genuinely reduce energy costs. Argon gas fill between panes improves insulation and most quality windows include it. Impact-resistant glass for hurricane zones or security concerns adds substantial cost.
Number of windows. More windows means a bigger total but usually a lower per-window price. Contractors spread their setup costs across more units, bulk purchasing helps, and they’re more motivated to win larger jobs. Our eight-window project came in at about $1,775 per window, but a neighbor who did three windows paid closer to $2,100 each.
Installation complexity. A straightforward swap where the new window drops into the existing frame is simpler and cheaper. Full-frame replacement where the entire window including the frame comes out costs more but makes sense when frames are damaged or when you’re changing to a different style or size. Second-story windows require ladders or scaffolding. Windows over additions, porches, or landscaping that complicate access add labor time.
Your location. Labor rates vary significantly by region. High cost-of-living areas mean higher installation costs. Rural areas might have fewer contractors and longer travel times built into quotes. Permit requirements differ by municipality and add to the total.
Window Costs by Type
These ranges reflect December 2025 pricing for materials plus typical installation.
Vinyl double-hung: $300 to $700 installed. The workhorse choice, good insulation, minimal maintenance, available everywhere.
Wood double-hung: $600 to $1,400 installed. Beautiful, paintable, historically appropriate for older homes, but requires sealing and maintenance.
Fiberglass double-hung: $600 to $1,200 installed. Stronger and more stable than vinyl, less maintenance than wood, expanding options as more manufacturers offer it.
Vinyl casement: $350 to $800 installed. Cranks open for maximum ventilation, seals tightly when closed.
Picture window: $250 to $700 installed. No moving parts means lower cost, great for views, combine with operable windows on the sides for airflow.
Sliding window: $300 to $700 installed. One sash slides horizontally, common over kitchen sinks and in contemporary designs.
Bay window (3-panel): $1,500 to $3,500 installed. Projects outward creating a shelf or seating area, requires structural support and custom finishing.
Bow window (4-5 panels): $2,000 to $4,500 installed. Curved projection, more dramatic than bay windows, proportionally more expensive.
Our Window Replacement Experience
We got four quotes. The range was absurd: $11,400 to $21,000 for the same eight windows. Same vinyl double-hungs, same installation scope, wildly different prices.
The lowest quote came from a smaller local company, two-person crew, no flashy showroom, just a guy with a tape measure and a notepad. He’d been installing windows for 22 years and his reviews were excellent. The highest quote came from a national brand with a slick presentation, lifetime warranty promises, and financing options that made the monthly payment sound reasonable while obscuring the total.
We went with the local company at $14,200, not the cheapest but he included a few upgrades the lowest bidder considered extras, and his installation timeline worked better for us. The crew finished in two days, cleaned up thoroughly, and the windows have been flawless for eight months now. Our winter heating bills dropped noticeably, maybe 15%, though I can’t isolate exactly how much was the windows versus a milder season.
The lesson: get multiple quotes, compare the actual specifications not just the bottom line, and don’t assume the biggest name offers the best product or installation.
Signs You Need New Windows
Not every drafty window needs replacing. Sometimes weatherstripping, caulk, or storm windows solve the problem at a fraction of the cost.
Replace when the seals have failed and you see fog or condensation between double-pane glass, that moisture indicates the insulating gas has escaped and the window’s efficiency is shot. Replace when frames are rotted, warped, or damaged beyond reasonable repair, no amount of caulk fixes structural decay. Replace when windows won’t stay open, won’t close properly, or have broken hardware that’s no longer available because fighting with your windows every day wears you down. Replace when single-pane glass makes rooms uncomfortable and your energy bills prove it, though run the payback math because window replacement rarely pays for itself through energy savings alone.
Consider repair instead when drafts come from gaps around the frame rather than through the window itself, weatherstripping and caulk are cheap fixes. Consider repair when the glass is fine but hardware is worn, replacement parts often exist. Consider repair when condensation forms on the interior surface, that’s typically a humidity issue inside your home not a window failure. Consider repair when windows are historic or architecturally significant, restoration often makes more sense than replacement for character and resale value.
How to Save on Window Replacement
You won’t turn a $15,000 project into a $5,000 project, but you can avoid overpaying.
Get at least three quotes, ideally four or five, because the pricing variation is genuinely shocking and you won’t know what’s reasonable until you see the range. Compare specifications carefully since quotes for “vinyl double-hung windows” might mean very different products, look at the brand, the glass package, the warranty terms, and what’s included in installation. Ask about contractor-grade versus retail lines because many manufacturers offer professional-only products that cost less than their showroom equivalents while performing identically.
Consider vinyl over wood or fiberglass if your priority is value, modern vinyl windows perform well and the price difference funds other home improvements. Do all your windows at once if possible because the per-window cost drops and you only deal with the disruption once. Time your project for slower seasons, late fall or late winter often bring better pricing as contractors fill gaps in their schedule.
Skip unnecessary upgrades that sound impressive but don’t matter for your situation, triple-pane glass makes sense in Minnesota but less so in South Carolina. Check for utility rebates and tax credits because energy-efficient windows sometimes qualify for incentives that offset a portion of the cost, your utility company’s website or the ENERGY STAR rebate finder can help.
Questions to Ask Window Contractors
What specific window brand and product line are you quoting? What glass package is included, double or triple pane, Low-E coating, gas fill? Is this a pocket installation into existing frames or full-frame replacement? What happens if you discover rot or damage during installation, how is that priced? How long is the warranty and what does it actually cover, parts, labor, seal failure? Are you licensed and insured in this state? How long have you been installing this manufacturer’s windows? Can I see photos or addresses of recent similar projects?
Get answers in writing. Vague quotes become expensive surprises.
The Payback Question
People ask whether new windows pay for themselves through energy savings. The honest answer: usually not, at least not purely financially.
Energy savings from new windows typically run 10-25% of heating and cooling costs, depending on what you’re replacing and your climate. On a $200 monthly energy bill, that’s $20 to $50 in savings. A $12,000 window project would take 20-50 years to recoup through energy savings alone, longer than most windows last.
But the math ignores comfort, no more drafty spots by windows in winter, no more rooms that won’t cool in summer. It ignores maintenance, no more scraping and painting rotted wood frames every few years. It ignores resale value, buyers notice old windows and adjust their offers accordingly. It ignores the satisfaction of finally fixing something that’s bothered you for years.
We didn’t replace our windows because the payback period made financial sense. We replaced them because living with fogged, drafty windows had become exhausting, and we could afford to fix it.
Pricing reflects typical ranges as of December 2025. Costs vary significantly by region, window specifications, and installation complexity. Always get multiple quotes and compare specifications carefully.
